WATERVILLE — When Route 12 takes you through the historic village of Waterville, a glance at the almost perfectly preserved 19th-century Main Street is a must. Unique and curious is this humble farm town bordered by more of the same that somehow evolved into a slice of post-revolutionary society.

The discovery by a local farmer of how to extract that inimitable flavor from hops and ship it separate from the plant to brewers near and far heaped unyielding prosperity onto what more resembles a hamlet, with a current population of just over 1,500. Dubbed at the time the Hops Capital of the World, Waterville’s new moguls invested in the finest architecture, infrastructure, art and culture, all in this tiny town taking up less than 1.5 square miles on the edge of Oneida County.

In the middle of Main Street, sharing a block with the historic Waterville Hotel, a salient shingle hangs above symmetrical bay windows coifed in cafe curtains, heralding an almost macabre moniker - The Slaughtered Lamb Pub.

The juxtaposition of that name with the cozy curb appeal compels a second look; dim light teases rich woods and sultry shades of green, distinguishing a traditional English Public House. People can’t resist taking a peek inside, grabbing a pint and asking … “The Slaughtered Lamb?”  

The original Slaughtered Lamb Pub poured pints in East Proctor, just north of London, which legend held was cursed by the bloodline of the werewolf. As every mythic evil has an antidote, so does the werewolf, repelled by the blood of a slaughtered lamb. The pub named itself for the elixir. As no spot in London with a good backstory fails to be, the Slaughtered Lamb was recreated in homage in Greenwich Village.

The owner of upstate’s iteration, native Terry Brown, doesn’t necessarily fear werewolves wandering Waterville — although ghosts of the legendary Loomis gang might! He’s just a fan of the 1980s cult movie classic, “An American Werewolf in London,” which memorialized the venue in pop culture. 

When the historic building went up for sale a decade ago — his pub was a pet shop then — Brown jumped at the chance; “it more or less just fell in my lap,” he said.

In his own homage to the original, Brown includes Fuller’s London Porter, imported from London itself, among the craft beers on tap. He also serves up “good food made fresh daily” in a “friendly atmosphere.”

A simple menu offers a suitable selection of appetizers, burgers and sandwiches. But locals look forward to learning what’s for dinner in Waterville: the Slaughtered Lamb’s daily specials, including meatloaf, shepherd’s pie, liver and onions, chicken and biscuits, and scalloped potatoes with ham and fresh carrots. 

The proprietor’s pick is by far the Friday fish fry.

“That’s what you should come in for,” says Brown, “because it’s the best there is.”

My spontaneous stop was, alas, not a Friday, but the chicken riggies special sold itself on sight, piled with a rainbow of peppers and tender chicken breast wading in housemade sauce with a light and lovely flavor. The bread, by the way, was great.

“It’s comfort food,” said Brown. “That’s the best way to put it.”

This Saturday evening, two couples and two solos bellied up to the bar as the aroma of supper sifted in from the kitchen; regulars, all but me, who welcomed a stranger. Brown describes his patrons as primarily “locals, middle-aged mostly … not loud” who come to be known by name and break bread with neighbors.

“It’s the people who come in,” said Brown of what makes doing every job in his joint worthwhile.